I came to France to ride my bicycle and experience a country where dogs are not second class citizens. I got just what I came for - 157.8 miles of hills and hundreds of smiles from dog lovers both French and Americaine.

There must have been 6 or 7 North American bike tour companies riding in Provence while we were there in the beginning October, but I'm sure ours was the best group.

Freewheeling Adventures, based in Nova Scotia, provided three staff members for our six American paying guests. Five of them used FA's rental bikes - new Trek road or mountain bikes equipped with rear rack and bag. I brought my folding Bike Friday with rear rack and basket - to carry my faithful riding companion - a seven year old miniature schnauzer - Joey. She is a veteran of two RAGBRAIS (ride across Iowa) and Big Wheel Bike Tour's Capital to Capital tour as well as numerous other invitationals in the Midwest and LAB rallies from Oregon to Indiana.

We picked this ride in France because 1) we stayed in hotels and 2) Eric, our leader, said Joey would be welcome in France. She was more than welcome. She was loved and I was the object of jealousy. All the travelling dog owners we met were missing their mutts at home or in their life's history. We met dozens of travellers who told me they owned schnauzers in previous years.

We spent two days in Paris. One was to catch up on jet lag and enjoy our first visit to a white tablecloth environment that admits dogs. The second day was spent walking for 8 hours in and out of stores which offered necessary items such as Parisian souvenirs, clothing, telephone cards, postcards. Storekeepers came up to me as if they were about to say "You can't bring that dog in here," and instead they just smiled and asked to pet the "moustache."

We were hosted in Paris by Annie, an elementary school teacher who is a member of Servas, an international organization whose members are interviewed, screened and then can participate in homestays oall over the world. We are looking for more members, especially people interested in travelling. For more information, www.usServas.org.

On the 3rd day we took the TGV (fast train) to Avignon, made friends on the train who helped us with our heavy cases full of folding bike, personal gear and dog food.

We met our fellow riders right on time at the Avignon train station and were whisked off in a European Van seating exactly nine plus luggage - to a picturesque chalet near St. Remy. The Chateau de Roussan was storing the other 8 rental bicycles. While the riders were adjusting their temporary wheels, I was unfolding the red New World Tourist and installing racks, bell, basket, harness, pad, water bottles and even cotton for Joey's dog ears which are irritated by the wind on the downhills.

The bike was ready for ordinary rides in about half an hour, but the accessories took another hour - about 30 bolts and 3 quick release levers in all had to be tightened before Joey could ride with me.

Dinner was unbelievable. We drove in the van to a restaurant featuring silver service, a variety of decorative glass plates, a Chariot de Fromages (cheeses) and a printed menu especially for our group.

This was only the first of five restaurant dinners included in the trip price that got better each time - and the food was photographed at greater frequency as it got more elaborate.

No, I didn't gain any weight on this trip. In fact, my jeans got looser by the end of the week. Must have been the French air. Or perhaps it was the challenge of the climbs.

Steep hills up to 621 meters, from 200 meters, followed by tight squeezes on the brakes for the exhilarating winding downhills. There were numerous switchbacks and traffic in both directions.

My daily distances varied from 7 to 70 kilometers. with rides in the van only due to nightfall.

Nobody was ever forced to take a ride in the van, but we were thanked for doing so as it kept the group closer together.

One leader drove the van and the other two rode their bikes with us, taking the responsibility for reading the cue sheet from the riders and making it more of a vacation.

On our last day together we were scheduled to do a hike, but rain changed our plans. We all went souvenir shopping in Aix du Provence. I scored some green eyeglass fames and two gorgeous chemises (blouses). Joey stopped traffic as usual. Everybody had to pet the schnauzer.

The evening meal was the best of the week and made even more special by the awards ceremony. The staff gave humorous presents to the riders. Three friends on the trip got together to write limericks for each of the other participants. With permission from the authors Betsy, Mary and Ann, I give you their excellent limerick about Joey and me.

On Bike Friday with Joey aboard
Kathy's cruising through towns like Le Gordes
Their jerseys are loud always drawing a crowd
With these two you won't likely be bored.

A Happy Birthday candle and song was also provided for my own special day. And a present arrived in the form of a phone call from a Servas host in Avignon who agreed to meet me and show me around the ancient walled town on my last day of the trip.

Nicole, a retired teacher, came to get me at the train station as I bid goodbye to my cycling cohorts. I entered a different mood as she took charge of my French experience. We spoke a few French words but mostly English. I had studied at the A lliance Francais in Chicago in preparation for our trip. It was definitely worth the time and the money as I found I could understand some roadsigns and advertisements. I found people more open if I start out with "bonjour" (and then run out of French words) instead of "do you speak English?"

Many of the French do speak English, but I think they prefer that I tried to speak French. Bonjour does sound sweet as a greeting. I was greeting every cyclist with it along the road...even the Americans.

I'm writing on the plane over the ocean. I still have to get my money's worth out of the travel documents that cost $72.00 for Joey's trip. Nobody wanted to see them in France.* She walked through the airport like I did. She's in her Sherpa bag now, yipping now and then especially if I am eating something.

Two hours from now we'll touch down at O'Hare. See you on the road.

*U S Customs didn't inspect Joey's documents either. All I needed to provide was her rabies certificate! Word to the wise - check with your veterinarian and with the USDA and the US Customs before you go. There's no telling who will want to see what, but you're better off being over-equipped.